Crank Bait Tip's For The Beginner
Written
By: Rick McFerrin
Owner/Full Time Guide
www.tennesseebassguides.com
Introduction
Prior to fishing full time I worked as a regional manager
for a large food manufacturer. As I traveled the Southeast, I would
regularly drive by or fly over many fantastic looking lakes, rivers
and streams. Gazing out or looking down at these bodies of water
I must admit my mind would race back to being a kid years ago sitting
in school on those first warm spring days looking out the nearest
window. All I wanted to do was "Chuck" the books and just
go fishing. I couldn't wait to get home. I knew that my dad
and I would either head to the river to wade or go to some of the
farm ponds that were near by.
I know I have shared this before, but my father introduced
me to fishing a crank bait in these rivers and ponds.
Back then we didn't have the unlimited choices in crank baits
like we do today. Dad and I used lures named "River Runt", "Lazy
Ike", "Mirr O Lure", "Cast Master", "Sparkle
Tail" and several more. At an early age I became "Hooked" on
fishing a crank bait. Through the years I've heard crank baits called "Idiot
Lures" You know, you just chunk and wind. But nothing could
be further from the truth. Through the years things have changed
dramatically. Today's crank baits in the hands of a skilled crank
bait fisherman is a high tech tool that can add big numbers
and quality to your fishing success. I want to revisit some prior
thoughts that I have shared about fishing a crank bait, and do a
little updating at the same time.
Where Does The Beginner Start?
One of our mission goals here at Tennessee Bass Guides is
to be a good information resource center for "Beginning Bass
Fisherman". With that goal in mind let's begin. When you go
into many of our "Super Tackle Stores" you are automatically
confronted with aisle after aisle of crank bait manufactures that
produce baits in 100's of different colors and sizes. Most of these
baits today will range in price from $3.00 all the way to almost
$20.00. Some of these baits float, while others sink. Some rattle
and some don't. Some are made from balsa, some hard wood and the
majority from a plastic composite. Some crank baits because of their
buoyancy rise quickly when you stop cranking while others suspend
or fall. Some baits have long lips, some short and others no lip
at all. Choosing the right bait and getting the most for your money
becomes a "mind boggling chore" for a new crank
bait fisherman. To get a good start you must do some home work "Before" you
step foot in that crank bait candy store. Here are a few questions
you need to answer first.
Where Are You Going To Fish Most?
Why is this important? It's simple, if you are going to wade creeks, rivers or fish ponds from the bank you may need crank baits that run shallower over all than let's say someone that fishes
from a boat on deep rivers and lakes. Your color selection may be
similar (we will cover this later) but your variety of deep running
baits will most likely be limited. If you are fishing small lakes
or ponds from a boat, your selection will increase because you will
be able to fish the deeper portions of the lake and most likely you
will be casting in towards the shallows and bring the bait back into
deeper water. If the pond or lake that you are fishing has an abundance
of vegetation this will also factor into your lure selection. If
your fishing large deep lakes you may need baits that run from 1
foot to 20 plus. You just have to adjust accordingly. The possibilities
are endless but I think you get the idea. Gear your crank bait selection
to where you are going to fish the most. By doing this and "going
slow" with your purchases, you can see what will and won't work
for you. In the long run you can save money that can be used on other
equipment needs.
Colors!
"I Wish I Hadn't Bought That"
Why would I say "I wish I Hadn't Bought That"? If
you were here at my house I would gladly show you why! Down stairs
in the garage I have a cork board that has well over a 100 crank
baits stuck to it that I never use. Some never ran correctly, others
didn't have the action that I wanted. And others are the result of "It
Looked Good To Me" when I was at the store but it never looked
good to the bass I was trying to catch. Through the years and several
wasted $$$$$$
I have settled on some very basic colors that will produce
for the beginner over and over, year after year. How do I know
that? Because they work for me. If you will start with these and
gain confidence in your crank bait fishing you will then have a better
comfort level in your next color selections.
Before I go any further, I need to say that we are proud to
be sponsored by one of the largest Crank Bait manufacturers in the
world, Normark. Normark brands include legends like, Rapala-Storm
and Lure Jensen on the crank bait side. These brands offer a rainbow
of colors including the ones we are going to discuss next. Through
out the year I will be writing a series of articles addressing these
brands and the various crank baits Normark produces.
From
my experience these are your "basic must have": colors. (1) Silver/Shad
(2) Firetiger (3) Chartreuse or Citrus Chartreuse (4) Dark Brown
Crawfish (5) Chrome Blue Back (6) Sliver Black Back (7) Red/Red 
Crawfish.
Will other colors catch fish? Yes! But once again, these colors have
proven themselves to be producers over and over again. These colors
will also cover different water colors that you will be faced with.
As I said, take it slow in your purchases and gain confidence in
what your throwing. Then you can branch out a little further.
What Depth Should My Crank
Bait Run And How Fast Should It Run?
Under most circumstances I prefer
to use a crank bait to search out cover and structure always looking
for that reaction bite. A crank bait is my "confidence" bait. There
are times when you can't crank fast enough. I always like to keep
my crank baits moving at a pretty good clip especially in clearer
water. I don't want the fish to get a real good look at it, as I
said I'm looking for the reaction bite. Then there are times when
conditions warrant me easing the bait through and around structure.
To do this I always select a crank bait that will run deeper than
the depth of water that I'm fishing. If I'm in 6 feet of water I
want a crank bait that will reach the 10 foot level. If I'm fishing
10 feet of water I want a crank bait that will run 12 to 15 feet
deep. The reason for this is simple. I want to be able to keep in
contact with the structure that I'm fishing. I want the bait bouncing
off as much structure as possible. Let me clear something up. If
your afraid to throw crank baits into heavy cover because you may
get hung up, you might as well stay at the house or take up another
sport. Besides that's what a good lure retriever is for, to get you
free from where the bass live. As you progress in your crank bait
fishing you will be able to fish them in many areas that you wouldn't
think possible.
The one exception to having a crank bait that runs deeper that
the water I'm fishing is when I'm fishing
grass. This is where I select a bait that will touch the top
of the weeds and has the ability to pull through when I jerk or snap
the rod forward. Many times in grass when you are using a lipless crank
bait like the Lure Jensen Sugar Shad the bass will hammer
the bait almost immediately when it comes free from the weeds. Two
other great crank baits for fishing weeds and grass is the Rapala
#5 Shallow Shad Rap and the Storm Sub Wart. These baits
run very shallow and produce for me year after year.
Most crank bait manufactures list on the package the depths
their baits will run. A good example of this is the new DT (Dives-to)
Series from Rapala. These baits are listed as DT4 (4Feet)-DT6 (Feet)-DT10
(10 Feet) and DT16 (16 Feet). This is very helpful when choosing the
right depth bait for the water that your fishing. The Lure Jensen Radar
series lists their baits as Radar 10 (10 Feet) and Radar 13 (13 Feet).
Look on the
package before you make your purchase it may save you a trip
back to the store.
Other factors that effect the depth a bait will run is (1)
Reel Speed. I prefer a reel with at least a 5:7-1 ratio. This gives
me speed when I need it but I still the ability to slow down when
necessary without working myself to death. (2) Line Diameter. I Fish
all my crank baits on either 6lb or 10 lb test max no matter the
depth. (3) Rod length. I prefer a AllPro APX 6 1/2 foot or
7 foot medium action rod. The extra length gives me the ability to
make longer more accurate casts and the extra length is very important
when it comes to fighting a big fish at the boat. (4) Cast Distance. The
longer your cast coupled with lighter line and reel speed will help
you achieve maximum depth with your bait.
What About Action And Sound?
Here's a couple tips on how you can determine what kind of
action a crank bait will have just by looking at it. (1) If the
line tie is 
closer
to the end of the bill the crank bait will run shallower than
a bait that has the line tienearer to
it's face. (2) If the bill of the bait is angled
sharply down it will run shallower than one where the
bill is angled straight out (3) The closer the line tie
is to it's face the tighter the wiggle the bait will have.
(4) Baits with a wider body will have more of a wobble
where thinner baits will have a tighter wiggle. (5) Lipless
crank baits like the Rattlin Rapala, has thin sides and
the line tie is on top. These type of baits have a very
tight wiggle and are very effective when retrieved at high
speeds.
Another important part in achieving good lure action is making
sure that you use a good snap (not a swivel). I never tie
directly to the split ring on a crank bait. This is
probably the most contested area in crank bait fishing. Many folks
won't use a snap, but over the years I have found that using a snap
only enhances (increases) the action of the crank bait. I have fished
side by side with many guys that won't use a snap and I will have
many more strikes in a period of a day than they will. Will CHEAP
SNAPS fail? Sure, but so will cheap line-reels-rods etc. Spend a
little extra on good snaps and it will pay off big time when you
get to the water.
Many crank baits have rattles in them. I have found that rattles
are very helpful most of the time. But on
the other hand I have found that rattles can be a hindrance
in late winter and early spring in colder water. This is when I opt
for the Rapala #5 or #7 Shad Raps which do not rattle. These baits
are fantastic all year long but they can be extra deadly at this time
of the year in cold water.
Conclusion
Like I always say in the seminars that I hold throughout the
year. If you like to fish a crank bait you need to move south, because
we can fish them all year long. You may have to change your
presentation-structure or depths. But if you are diligent in learning
you can add many pounds of bass to your yearly catch. Don't load
your tackle box down with dozens of colors and sizes. Take your time
and find out what works for you best. I hope this article will help
you in getting started fishing a crank bait. Let me know how you
do, or if you have any questions feel free to contact me at. rickm@dtccom.net.
Thanks for reading and God Bless.
Rick McFerrin
Owner/Full Time Guide
Tennessee Bass Guides LLC
www.tennesseebassguides.com
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