Fishing A Spinner Bait: Tips For The Beginner
Written By: Rick McFerrin
Owner/guide - www.tennesseebassguides.com
Introduction
I believe one of the reasons that I have loved fishing for largemouth
bass now for over 40 years is their inbreed tendencies to ambush their
prey. Or to put it a little closer to home, ambush the particular artificial
bait that I might be using at the time. I have always leaned toward
running type baits such as crank baits, jerk baits, buzz baits and
spinner baits
as my main lures of choice. To have a bass mash a diving crank bait
so hard it almost jerks the rod out of your hand is a feeling that
is hard
to describe. The only thing that could make it better would be if you
could “See” the bass hit, which most of the time unless you
are fishing clear water you don’t. But on the other hand, there
is a versatile bait that can be used not only in deep water, but in mid
range and shallow water presentations that will allow you many times
to “See” the strike. This of course would be the safety pin
type “Spinner bait”. Over the next several paragraphs I
want to share (1) How I choose a spinner bait. (2) The rod and reel
combinations
that I use. (3) Where and how I fish the bait. My hope is that there
is something here that will help you.
How To Choose A Good Spinner Bait
Let’s get this out of the way up front. The “Price Tag” on
the spinner baits isn’t always an indication of how well the bait
is made or how well it will perform under heavy usage. “Cheaper” isn’t
always “Better”. But, the most “Expensive” isn’t
always the answer either. To me there are seven tests that spinner baits
must pass to make it a good tool for me. Some of these elements can be
determined with the bait still in the package-unfortunately others can
only be determined by using the bait. That is why I would suggest not
purchasing more than (1) one until you know it is worth an additional
purchase. Now for a little Q&A.
1) What kind wire is the bait made of and what is the wire gauge?
I’m
sure there are those that are saying right now, why is this important?
It is very simple. I have found that spinner baits made with wire that
is Less Than .045 gauge just won’t hold up under rigorous usage.
The price on the bait might look attractive when you pay for it at
the store-but how good does it look to you when it bends beyond repair
after
you have used it a time or two and you have to throw it away? The wire
in my opinion that holds up the best is Stainless Steel. I have used
spinner baits made of everything from small gauge wire cable to Titanium.
Wire cable was so flexible that it created too much shaft movement
it negated the blade action and Titanium spinner baits have a tendency
to
Snap because the compound is very brittle. For my $$$$$ stainless is
the best choice.
2) Where is the hook point in relationship to the line tie? This
is another test you can do while the bait is still in the package.
Again
why is this important? Back in the mid 70’s I was burning the roads
up between home and the famed Toledo Bend Reservoir on the Louisiana
Texas border when I made friends with a great fisherman from Monroe Louisiana.
He introduced me to Louisiana lakes with names such as “Black Bayou” Lake
Bruin” “Lake Providence” and more. All these lakes
are full of cypress tress and custom made for spinner baits. I watched
him “OPEN” the hook up on his spinner baits and explain that
this was done to get better hook up’s. What he was saying was the
absolute truth. But the reason for having to do this was that the line
tie was higher than the hook point which meant when my friend set the
hook he would actually be jerking the hook downward and out of the bass
mouth. This is why it is so important….and believe me it will make
a difference at the lake. The next time you are in a fishing tackle section
just take a few minutes to look at the various spinner baits and you
will see what I’m talking about.
3) What brand of hook is used on the bait? Why is this important?
Simple! There is nothing worse than having a bait with a hook that
won’t
penetrate butter. As I said earlier many baits LOOK GOOD at the store.
But they loose their looks at the lake when you see a big fish jump and
throw the bait because of bad hooks. I would just suggest this rule of
thumb. If a spinner bait manufacturer doesn’t list on the package
the type of hook used (such as Laser Hooks-Mustad Needle Point and
others) I would pass on by. Believe me if they used a premium hook
on their bait
they would sure want you to know about it! No hook information on the
packaging might even indicate cutting corners in other parts of the
manufacturing process. Just food for thought.
4) Is the spinner bait equipped with a good premium silicone skirt?
How many times in the past have you bought a spinner bait and put
it in you boat storage or tackle box to use on your next trip? Trip
day
is here you reach down to get this new bait only to find that the
skirt had melted together and is unusable? Now not only do you have
an additional
expense replacing the skirt-but more annoying is the sticky mess
the skirt has made in your Tackle box. I do believe however that there
is
a slight difference in the way a 100% rubber skirt will perform in
cold water verses a silicone skirt. When that time rolls around and
it is
necessary, I change the shirts out. But it is very rare that I leave
a 100% rubber skirt in my boat during hot weather. It may sound like
a small thing-but it isn’t when you have to clean up the mess.
5) What about blades? A test for the lake! Do you buy a spinner bait
with Willow Leaf Blades-or-Colorado Blades-or-Indiana Blades? Should
the blades be Painted-or-Hammered Nickel-or-Hammered Copper-or-Mirror
Finished-or-metallic finished? Do I need tandem blades or single blades?
And the answer is yes! You may need a combination of all of these to
effectively fish different water conditions. BUT no mater what the
combination, the blades need to be made of high quality material where
they will hold
up under heavy usage. The finish on the blades need to last and not
discolor or flake off after you have bang it into various structure
a few times.
And each blade style needs to provide you with maximum vibration and
water displacement for their size. At the lake blade performance can
be determined rather quickly. The durability test may take a little
longer. To help you understand the difference in blade types look at
the attached
picture to the left. (1) This blade is called a “Willow Leaf. “ For
the water that I fish the most here in Tennessee it is probably the best
over all style. It is good in clear and stained water and will put off
a fair amount of flash based on it’s finish. I fish a lot of weeds
on Old Hickory and the willow leaf tends to come through them much better
that other styles. (2) This is a Colorado blade. This blade will put
off more vibration and is the blade that I turn to in heavily stained
to muddy water and at night in deep water. I also like to use it in areas
where I’m fishing more wood than grass. (3) This is a Indiana Blade.
It is a mixture of the willow leaf and Colorado blade/ It also will put
off a “good vibration” (little Beach Boys there) and a
lot of flash based on the blades finish. Size of blade is normally
dependent
upon how fast I intend to retrieve the bait. The smaller the bade the
faster the retrieve. The larger the blade the slower the retrieve.
6) This test you unfortunately won’t know until you get to the
lake. When you “Burn” the spinner bait just under the surface
(I’ll explain this technique later) does the bait come back straight
to you or does it roll on one side or the other? So what if it rolls?
If it rolls the blades won’t displace the maximum amount of water
possible and your percentages of provoking a reaction strike diminishes.
Even with .045 gauge stainless steel wire after you have beat and banged
the bait into structure over and over again it will sometimes bend to
the point where the bait will roll. When this happens, gently straighten
the wire with a pair of pliers the problem can normally be corrected.
Other reasons that spinner baits roll is that the blade or blades are
too large for that size spinner bait or the wire gauge is to flimsy.
In the last two cases you have just bought a bad spinner bait which more
than likely will be added to your “I wish I hadn’t bought
that bait pile”
7) Another test you can only perform at the lake. The opposite of “Burning” a
spinner bait just under the surface would be “Slow Rolling” (Another
technique we will discuss later) the bait in deeper water. It seems that
most smallmouth fishermen here in the south love to slow roll big bladed
spinner baits in deep water. Most of the time they literally “Drag” or “Crawl” the
bait. But that’s hard to do when you continually have to increase
your speed just to get the blades to turn. To me a good spinner bait
is one where the blades begin to turn immediately upon retrieve, and
you can feel the thump of the blades when you slow it down to a crawl.
This is my seven tests that I use when selecting a spinner bait that
will perform and last over a reasonable amount of time on the water.
I have fishermen ask me what my favorite spinner bait is and hands
down I have to reply Secret Weapon! Why? Because they pass all 7 tests
in
flying colors and the value to cost ratio is the best available today!
Check out our links page or www.secretweaponlures.com But we aren’t
done yet. Next you need to determine colors and the weight or bait
size needed for each fishing situation. We will address that next.
Choosing Size And Colors Of Spinner Baits
I’m going to try my best to keep this fairly simple. One of
the most important considerations that needs to be addressed in any
lake
is the size of the predominate bait fish that the bass are feeding
on. If I can I try to match the size as closely as possible. But (and
there
is always a but) there are other factors that need to be addressed
as well. Such as water color-cloud cover density and are you fishing
daylight
or darkness. If your fishing at night is it the light or the dark
of the moon?
Let’s start with size. Do I use a 1/4ounce-3/8 ounce-1/2 ounce-3/4
ounce or 1 ounce bait? This explanation is going to be very basic. If
I’m fishing water that is stained to muddy or if I’m fishing
slowly in deeper water at night I will use larger spinner baits. 1/2
ounce and up. The reason for this is that larger spinner baits are bulkier
and the larger blades will create more vibration which will help a bass
locate the bait. If the water is real muddy or if it is pitch black dark,
I might even add a big trailer of some sort to add to increase the bulk.
If I’m fishing daytime clear water (or) shallower clear water
at night with a moon I prefer smaller baits, 3/8 ounce and down because
the bass can see them much easier and most of the time without a trailer.
Now what about color? Once again I will try to keep this simple.
In clearer water I like to use white-chartreuse & white-off white sliver
pepper and a see through silver flaked skirts. If I’m fishing moderately
stained water I will almost always opt for chartreuse and white or chartreuse
and blue. If it is muddy I like pure bright chartreuse. At night I like
combinations of solid black-solid purple-black & blue-black & purple-black & red.
And at night if the water is clear with a moon and I’m fishing
in shallow to moderate depths I even like pure white.
There is no doubt in my mind that other solid colors or color combination
work for other fishermen. But these are the sizes and colors that produce
for me most consistently. Now that we have the right spinner bait what
rod and reel combo do I use?
Choosing The Right Spinner Bait Rod/Reel Combo
This will be one area where there will be some disagreement. So I
will just preface this portion by saying I’m going to explain what works
for me. Having the “Right” rod and reel combination for a
specific technique in your hands makes all the difference in the world.
I wouldn’t use a flipping stick/casting reel combo filled with
20lb test line to throw a small # 5 Shallow Shad Rap. Nor on the other
hand would I use a 5 ½ foot ultra light rod/micro spinning reel
with 4lb test to fish a 3/8oz spinner bait. Once again having the right
rod/reel set up for fishing a spinner bait makes a big difference. The “One
Rod Fits All Techniques” just doesn’t work. Over the next
few paragraphs my goal is to explain why I use what I use. I hope this
will help you.
I guess I need to go all the way back to my friend from Monroe Louisiana
to help explain why I use what I use. Rods have come a long way over
the past 30 years. I can remember getting into Everett’s 14 foot
Jon boat and he would have 5 or 6 fiberglass rods rigged with different
baits. He swore by those fiberglass rods, and I must admit he sure could
put the hurt on largemouth every time he went. Graphite rods were just
becoming somewhat popular-but he was dead set against these new rods.
More than once I heard him say “Why change something that isn’t
broke?” To some degree back 30 years ago he was right. But as time
and technology has raced by those new rods have become much more sensitive.
Now I use two different AllPro APX Series rods for fishing spinner baits.
First is the AllPro APX7MSTN which is a 7 foot Medium action spinning
rods for lighter baits and the AllPro APX610MHCA which is a 6 foot 10
inch medium heavy casting rod for my heavier baits. Both of these rods
have soft tips and the sensitivity is amazing. One real point of difference
that sets these APX rods apart from all other graphite rods no matter
the brand or cost is the “Graphite Rings” on the handle.
(See picture to the left) Other graphite rods are made where the graphite
blank runs through a cork handle. The cork inadvertently acts as a buffer
or insulator which diminishes some of the “Feel” or sensitivity.
But the APX is designed where the strike is transmitted from the tip
of the rod through the blank and into these graphite rings and then into
the palm of your hand. Absolutely maximizing sensitivity. No buffer-no
insulator just “Direct Feel”!!! I have been fortunate to
own some very nice rods in my life time. But these new AllPro APX series
rods are the best I have ever had in my hands. The APX rod is 100% American
made (which is unusual these days) is a light as a feather but extremely
powerful and once again very sensitive. They are made of the finest 100%
graphite with Fuji ECS Reel Seats and Titanium guides. When you throw
a spinner bait on these rods you can feel the “Thump” of
the blade all the way through the rod handle. Even the slightest bite
is magnified. It is so much more sensitive than fiberglass rods which
have a very slow response when you set the hook. I like the longer
handles which helps with two handed long casts. I also like the longer
rods because
they give you an extra advantage fighting a fish right at the boat.
You can visit the AllPro site by going to our links page or by www.allprorods.com
.
Back about 3 years ago I bought a 7 foot fiberglass cranking rod
that I thought I just had to have. I used it 4 times and was so disappointed
in the “FEEL” that I “WASN’T GETTING” that
I hung it up on the wall and it hasn’t been used since. Another
$100.00 that could have been put to better use. I have become so accustomed
to the quick hook sets and feel that I get with my graphite rods that
the fiberglass rod was just plain disappointing.
I guess for me it just plain comes down to feel. I want to be able
to detect those subtle hit’s when a big fish engulfs the bait and
all you can “Feel” is something different. Have you been
there before? Not a slashing-bone jarring strike just a subtle difference.
If you can’t feel that subtle difference you are going to miss
out on a lot of fish. I can hear some boooo’s from the fiberglass
fans that are reading this right now-that’s why I prefaced in the
beginning I just want to explain what works for me. If you can put a
bunch of bass in the boat on a regular basis using fiberglass “Don’t
change what’s not broke” But if your having trouble detecting
those subtle hit’s you might just want to think about buying a
good (let me say it again) good-graphite rod. All graphite rods are not
created equal. If you buy a cheap rod-expect cheap results. I always
urge new bass fishermen to buy the best they can afford. Use it until
you can afford something even better then move up. Everyone’s disposable
income isn’t the same. But we all have the same ability to use
what we have wisely.
Now to the reel department. As I have said before, I settled in with
Shimano reels and just stayed right there. I use a Shimano Stradic
ST4000FH on my spinning rod. This reel retrieves 35 inches of line
per crank-has
5 bearings-a 5.7:1 gear ratio and weighs 13.4 oz. I fill the reel with
200 yards of 10lb test P-line. The 5.7:1 ratio gives me enough speed
when I need it but also works extremely well at a slower presentation.
On my casting rod I use the Shimano Calcutta reel which retrieves line
at 23 inches per crank-has 3 bearings-a 5.0:1 gear ratio and weighs
11.1 ounces. I fill this reel with 200 yards of 12 pound test P-Line.
This
reel combined with my APX rod gives me a very powerful combination
with medium to larger baits. I guess it’s like a guy that will only
buy a Ford or a Chevy…you just like what you like and stay with
it.
Locations And Techniques
I have heard it said that you can use a spinner bait just about everywhere
and I believe that to be true. You can fish this bait shallow-mid
range or deep water. You can fish it in open water or around heavy
timber-grass-rock
and other obstacles. You can burn it-slow roll it-crawl it and just
use an in-between retrieve. The safety pin style spinner bait is truly
a
versatile lure. Next we will explore where and how I fish the spinner
bait-I’m sure there are other techniques and locations that
might work even better for you on your area lakes. To find those
it just takes
time on the water and patience. Hopefully this will give you a starting
place.
1) Lay Down Timber: One of my favorite places to fish a spinner bait
is in and around fallen timber that has several limbs remaining. Some
of the limps will be visible while much of it may not. My home water
here in middle Tennessee is Old Hickory Lake which has an abundance
of fallen timber in all depths of water. Some of this timber will remain
stationary all the time. Some of it will move with the rise and fall
of the lake level. Some will be in the backs of coves and pockets.
Some
are wedged in and around docks and piers. Some have come to rest right
at or near the main river channel with a lot of current while others
are isolated on expansive flats that have little current. But no matter
where the timber is located all of it under the right conditions is
prospective cover for largemouth bass. I would have to say that “Isolated” timber
located near or on a channel ledge has historically been the best producer
of bass for me. These areas normally will have deep water close by-current-bait
washing in and shade on some area of the timber. The more limbs on the
fallen tree the more shaded areas that will be present. I always make
repeated casts to the shaded portion of the timber trying to stay as
parallel as possible. Bass like shaded areas and truthfully they don’t
have to be large areas. Work the timber completely-pick it apart section
by section. Let your spinner bait helicopter (free-fall) down in and
around intersections of limbs where it is attached to the trunk. Hold
on you might just have a fight
2) Visible Logs Without Branches and Stumps: I approach visible straight
logs (one’s without branches) by fishing the shaded side of first.
If part of the log is resting on bank I try to cast as closely to the
bank as possible and bring the spinner bait slowly down the entire length
of the log. Then I work the other side of the log. If the log is running
out into deep water I position my boat where I can cast my spinner bait
well past the end of the log and retrieve it very slowly letting the
bait bump the log as I go by. On visible stumps I make my cast on the
shaded side beyond the stump. By casting past the stump you can work
the side and back of the stump at the same time. Plus it isn’t
as likely that you will spook a bass that might be there. Some stumps
have very little root system attached-while others might have an extensive
system. Here’s a tip beginning bass fishermen. Always wear a good
pair of polarized sun glasses. They will help you greatly in visually
determining what you are fishing. Years ago I fished a lake that had
the “Text Book” example of stumps situated directly on a
creek channel bank. Many of the stumps were 4 to 5 feet across and all
had extensive roots still attached. The base of the stumps was located
in 3 feet of water with some of their roots actually hanging over the
channel drop into 15 feet of water. I spent many exciting hours working
this stump row over and over again. The water was just clear enough that
you could see the bass come out of the roots and smash the spinner bait
as it bumped and banged along. Early-late and on cloudy days the bass
would be located up in the shallow water but at other times with clearer
brighter sky’s they would be staged on roots right at the break.
Areas like these will produce fish over and over again through out
the year.
3) Shallow Water Grass: Another favorite area of mine to fish a spinner
bait is in standing weeds like the ones in the picture to the left.
Some of these weed lines are in very shallow water-some will extend
out into
4 feet of water or more. Some will be located on flats very near channel
drops. As you can see in the attached picture there is a sizeable opening
between the grass and the bank. Early and late in the day as well as
cloudy days this can be your key area to focus on. I make long casts
and work the spinner bait back to me always having visual contact with
the bait. There are some areas like this that will have patches of
standing grass within the opening. These are key areas as well. As
the sun comes
up I concentrate on the outside “deeper” edges of the grass
weaving the spinner bait through as much of the vegetation as possible.
I have also noticed that on windy days when it is blowing directly
into the weeds the bass seem to be staged more to the out side edges
of the
weed line. When this is the situation I always start there no matter
the time of day or what amount of cloud cover I have. Lure speed varies
you may have to adjust several times before you find what the bass
want.
4) Bluffs: I may be wrong, but I believe that many beginning bass
fishermen look at bluffs (main channel and creek channel) and think
they will have
to throw a jig or worm to have a chance of catching bass. Or maybe
the thought of the deep water associated with the bluff keeps them
from fishing
it all together. But you know there are times, under the right circumstances
that much shallower running lures can be big producers in these areas.
One of first mistakes that many fishermen make is staying too far off
the bluff wall with their boats. I have found to fish these areas correctly
no matter what the water color is you have to fish parallel so close
that you can reach out and touch the bluff with your hands. By doing
this you keep your bait in the strike zone all the way. When the water
color is clear you can burn the spinner bait back to you just under
the surface. Many times that I have had suspended fish come up from
deep
water on these bluffs to bust a spinner bait. When the water color
is dingier I work the ledges of these bluffs by slow rolling the spinner
bait trying to stay in contact with the rock and wood as much as possible.
I also always look for changes in the bluff wall such as indentations
and rock slides. Indentions are recessed areas in the face of the wall
that will give you two defined corners for bass to ambush from as well
as the recessed area that many times will hold timber or a series of
stair step ledges. Rock slides on the other hand is almost always a
signal
that the water around the side will be shallower. These areas hold
bait fish and crayfish continually. When you get to the end of the
bluff you
will come to a “Point” much like the one in the upper right
hand corner of the picture above. We will discuss this next.
5) Points: Think about this for just a minute. Some lake are shallow-some
are deep. Some are clear and some are dingy to muddy. Some have vegetation
and others don’t. Some have an abundance of wood while other are
void of wood. This could go on and on so let’s get to the bottom
line. One feature that at least 90% of all lakes will have in common
is that they have “Points” located in various areas of the
lake. Some lakes because of size or shape may have more or less-but most
will have some. Using a spinner bait on points can be some of the most
rewarding trips that you might ever have. Points offer bass a change
in depth. And it’s that change that leads from shallow to deeper
water that helps hold bass on them year around in many lakes. I like
points that extend out into the lake and then take a sudden drop. This
type of point seems to hold more and larger fish over all. I try to position
my boat deep water but close enough to reach the shallow portion of the
point with a long cast. I cast the spinner bait across the point and
drag it back to me making as much contact with the point as possible
with out getting hung up. I make repeated casts going a little deeper
and a little deeper to ensure that I have worked to area completely.
I then move my boat where I can work both sides and the center portion
of the point. Points like this can be good all year around-spring –summer-fall
and winter.
6) Boat Docks: What 3 key features do docks offer bass? (1) Shade
(2) Cover (3) Bait Fish. If you fish older lakes that have docks on
them
you will find they vary in size-construction and in depth of water.
My favorite type of dock is one that is low to the water has openings
either
between the wood or floatation has submerged cover around them and
is close to deep water. Lower built docks offer bass more shade-the
openings
give bass a variety of areas to hide in. And the submerged cover (most
likely there for crappie) attracts bait fish which attracts the bass.
I like to work my spinner bait parallel slowly against outside edges
of the dock-letting it drop and then pick back up the speed. I also
work inside the covered area of the dock as much as possible. Many
times if
bass are suspended under the dock the helicopter action of the spinner
bait blades will provoke a reaction strike. If the dock has house boats-pontoon
boats or jet ski platforms attached to it I treat them as part of the
dock and fish them accordingly. Just a word of advice. I have found
that some docks “Never” produce fish for me-so when I’m
fishing a line of docks I only fish those that have produced regularly
in the past. No need in beating dead water……..keep moving!
7) Rip Rap Areas: I really like fishing rip rap areas. And although
most of these areas may look the same it couldn’t be further from
the truth. I like to look for areas of the rip rap that is different
from everything else around it. Such as small points that extend out
even slightly. Logs that have wedged themselves in close to the bank.
Weed growth that extends a foot or more out from the rocks. It’s
this type of areas that seem to hold the most fish. I like to work these
areas parallel keeping my boat as close as possible to the rocks. I make
long cast and start out by keeping visual contact with the spinner bait
all the way back to the boat. If the bass aren’t holding that
close to the rocks a move out a little deeper but still fish parallel
slowing
my spinner bait down checking out various depth levels. Rip rap areas
hold bait fish-crawfish and other goodies for a hungry bass to dine
on. If the section of rip rap you are fishing has a culvert or bridge
on
it, be sure to work all four corners that have been created by the
bridge. You will also need to determine if there is current coming
through the
culvert or bridge. If current is present the four corners of rip rap
under the bridge can be even more productive.
Conclusion
I hope that some of what you have read above will help you on your next
trip to the lake. Spinner baits may very well be one of the most versatile
baits that you will ever have in you tackle box. A lure for all depths-seasons
and weather conditions. Be careful in the spinner baits you buy-use the
correct rod and reel combo for fishing spinner baits-and be thorough
when and where you use them. If you will do these things you will increase
your changes greatly of having good productive spinner bait days on the
water. Rick McFerrin www.tennesseebassguides.com
For additional “Tips” check out the “Tips Archive” area
on the Tennessee Bass Guides web site.
More
Tips by Rick McFerrin
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