I hope some of the following thoughts will help young and beginning
fishermen have a better understanding of fishing a crankbait.
I guess every Bass fisherman has a “Go To” lure that they
have more confidence in than any other. To some it’s a jig, to
others its spinner bait or a worm. I have a good friend in Louisiana
that fishes oxbow lakes that are full of Cyprus tress. Nole says “If
I’m going to catch anything I’d rather it be on a buzz bait”.
You have to have confidence in what you’re throwing, and by far
my “Go To” lure, my “Confidence Lure” is a
crankbait.
My father introduced me to crankbait fishing many years
ago as just a young boy. Dad and I bass fished with lures named “River Runt” “Lazy
Ike” “Mirr O Lure” “Cast Master” “Sparkle
Tail” and many more. I must admit that I became a crank bait junkie
long ago. One of the first tags crankbaits were labeled with was “Idiot
Lure”. You just throw it out and crank it in. But through the
years things have changed dramatically-to days crankbaits in the hands
of a
skilled crankbait fisherman is a high tech fish catching tool that
can add big numbers and quality to your fishing success.
But for the beginning crankbait fisherman where do
you begin? When you go into a large fishing tackle store you are confronted
with dozens
of crank bait manufactures that produce baits in hundreds of different
colors and sizes, with prices running anywhere from $3.00 to $10.00
or more. Some baits float, while others sink. Some rattle and some don’t.
Some crankbaits because of their buoyancy rise quickly when you stop
cranking while others suspend. Some baits have short lips-some long
and others none at all. Just choosing the right baits to get started
with
can be not only mind boggling but costly if you make a mistake.
WHERE ARE YOU GOING TO FISH MOST
My suggestion would be this, determine first where most of your fishing
is going to be. If you are going to be wading creeks and rivers or fishing
ponds from the bank you may need shallower running baits. If you are
fishing lakes from a boat your variety in color and depth selection will
be greater because of varying depth and water colors. (We will cover
more on depth in a minute) Once you have determined where your going
to fish the most you then can move on to colors.
I’ve learned the hard way over the last 30 years
when it comes to colors. I have a cork board in my boat barn that has
well over 100
crankbaits stuck to it that I never use now. Some never ran right,
while others were the result of “It Looked Good To Me” when
I was at the store but it sure didn’t look good to the fish when
I used them at the lake. Through the years (and several $$$) I have
settled
on some very basic colors that produce over and over again.
I have 6 basic colors that I rely on over and over
again. In clearer water I use Texas Shad-Chrome and Blue and Chrome and
Black. In stained
and muddier waters I use Firetiger-Chartreuse and Crawdad. All the
baits in the picture at the left are manufactured by Bandit Lure Company
and
will give you a good idea about colors. But if I had to choose ONE
COLOR ONLY to fish month in month out on our area lakes it would have
to be
a shad pattern. Once again remember “It’s a confidence thing”.
Under most circumstances I use a crankbait to search
out cover and structure looking for a reaction bite. At times I will “Burn” or
crank it as fast as possible, other times I “Ease” the
bait through the structure. To be able to do this I always try
to select a
crankbait that will run deeper than the water depth that I’m
fishing. If I’m in 6 feet of water I want a crankbait that
will run 8 to 10 feet deep. If I’m in 10 feet of water I
want a crankbait that will run 12 to 15 feet deep. I want to make
sure that I’m
keeping in contact with the bottom at all times bouncing off as
much structure
as possible.
ONE EXCEPTION to this is when I’m fishing grass so
I select a crankbait that will just barely touch the tops of the weeds.
You may say “If I throw a crankbait in structure I’ll get
hung up and may loose my bait”. That’s what a good lure retriever
is for. If you are not willing to throw into structure you might as well
be fishing in your living room. Most crankbait manufactures will list
the depths their baits will run, but remember that (1) Reel Speed-I prefer
a reel with at least a 5:7-1 ratio (2) Line Diameter- I prefer to fish
6lb to 10 lb max (3) Rod Length- I prefer at least a 6½ foot
rod-7 foot is better and (4) cast distance will play a big part
in how deep
your crankbait will run.
Here’s a couple of tips on how you can determine what kind of
action a crankbait will have just by looking at it. If the line tie is
closer to the end of the bill that crankbait will run shallower than
a bait the has the line tie nearer to it’s face. If the bill of
the crankbait is angled down it will run shallower that one where the
bill is straight. The closer the line tie is to it’s face the
tighter the wiggle. Baits with a wider body will have more of a wobble
where
thinner baits will have more of a wiggle. Lipless crankbaits like a
Rattle Trap have thin sides and the line tie is on the top-these types
of baits
have a very tight wiggle and are very effective when retrieved at high
speeds.
Another important part in achieving good lure action is making sure
that your crankbait has a adequate size split ring (I change all
baits with small rings)
and in my opinion the use of a good quality snap not a swivel . This is probably
the most hotly contested area in crankbait fishing. Many will never use a
snap and will always tie directly to the baits split ring. Over years
of experimenting
I have found that if you use a good snap and attach it directly to the baits
split ring it will enhance your lures action dramatically. I have fished
side by side with many that won’t use a snap and I will have numerous more
strikes in a period of the day’s fishing using a snap. Will CHEAP SNAPS
FAIL? Yes…but so will cheap line-reels-rods. Spending a little extra
on good snaps in my opinion pays off big time throughout the year.
Many crankbaits have rattles in them. I have found that rattles are very helpful
when (1) there is limited visibility because of muddy water (2) the structure
is very heavy (3) the bass are actively feeding. But on the other hand I
have found that rattles can be a hindrance such as in clearer lakes when
bass are moving up to spawn and at times in the late winter/early spring
in colder water. This is the time that I opt for a #5 or #7 Shad Rap. I have
watched this hold true over and over again on Old Hickory Lake early in the
year.
The great thing about crankbaits is that here in
the south you can throw them all year long. You will have to change
presentation-structure-depths
and line weight to make them work for you. But if you will be diligent
in learning you can add many pounds of bass to you years catch.
Don’t
go out and load your tackle box down with dozen of colors and sizes-take
your time and find out what will work for you best. With the money
that you will save in dud crankbaits you will be able to take your
wife or
girl friend out to dinner a few more times which might result in
more uncontested
fishing trips for you. Hope this helps you!
Rick McFerrin
Owner/Guide
Tennessee Bass Guides Inc.
