BUSTING BASS WITH JIG WORMS
by Wayne Ek

Using this simple and versatile rig can be one of the most productive methods for busting bass. Whether you're finessing them out of shallow cover, dragging them from under docks or mining them from deep-water weed lines, it's hard to ignore the jig worm.

Before we get into specific presentations, lets talk about the tackle used to fish jig worms. I think it would be safe to say that jig worming is generally looked upon as a finesse technique. And I would guess that 80% of my jig worming could be called finesse fishing. Just the word finesse seems to indicate that you should be using a quality rod that affords you great sensitivity.

My favorite spinning rod for jig worming is Quantum's (PTS665F), which is a 6'6" med./heavy rod, rated for 8-17 pound lines. For a number of years I favored shorter spinning rods (5'6" to 6'0") in medium actions for jig worming, but with these shorter rods I lost too many fish when they started jumping. When I went to a longer rod I lost fewer fish. I think using a longer rod givers you better control over the fish.

For spinning reels I like Quantum's Kinetic and Catalyst reels, in size 20. The majority of the time I fish a braided line. However, if conditions dictate the use of a fluorocarbon line I will blood knot a fluorocarbon leader to the braided line. I'm a big advocate of using fluorocarbon lines, just not on spinning reels.

About 20% of my jig worming has nothing to do with finesse. This application is more like a down and dirty brawl. You need a rod with enough backbone to handle heavy line and a reel to match. Last year I used a 7' Quantum medium/heavy rod with a fast taper, rated for 10-25 pound line. For a reel I used a prototype of Quantum's new "BURNER" (TE1170PT) reel. This is a high speed 11 bearing reel, with a (7.1:1) gear ratio, which handled both braid and fluorocarbon lines flawlessly.

This is an example of the Northland's Lip-Stick Worm Head Jig, rigged on a 5" stick bait and a Baby Brush Hog.

This is my "go to rig", a 4" Berkley Straight-tail Finesse worm on a Gopher Tackle mushroom head jig.

I have narrowed my jig selections down to 3 styles that cover most of my fishing needs. The first jig head is made by Northland Tackle (www.northlandtackle.com). It's called the Lip-Stick Jig-Worm. I use this in black (bullhead) and brown (crawfish), in 3/32nd oz. & 1/8th oz. weights. I use them for finesse fishing 6" worms, Baby Brush Hogs, Baby Ring-Fry and 5" stick baits. The second style of jig is made by Gopher Tackle Company (www.gophertackle.com) and is my "go to rig" when fishing is tough. This is the Pro Series mushroom head jig. It comes in a variety of weights. Most of the time I use the 3/32nd or 1/8th and 90% of the time the color will be black. I rarely use anything other than a 4" finesse worm on this jig. My "go to" worm is a 4" straight-tail finesse worm with a black body and chartreuse-tipped tail, by Berkley. The third jig is used on the bait-casting rod for "down and dirty" fishing. Gopher Tackle Company manufactures it also. This jig is the VMC Barbarian Series mushroom head jig. I use this in 3/16th and 1/4 ounce weights. Mainly I use just two colors, black and brown. I use this when fishing Berkley Power Slugs, Brush Hogs or Ring Frys.

One of the areas where the jig worm excels is deep weed line fishing. During the summer period my "go to" rig on a deep weed line is the 4" straight-tail finesse worm, especially during a cold-front period. I like weed lines made up of curly leaf cabbage, coontail or a mixture of both. Softer vegetation like milfoil is hard to fish with a jig worm. I like to cast up into the deep edge of the weed line and let the jig worm fall down into the cabbage. You're going to hang up in the cabbage leafs, and that's what you want to happen. Once the jig-worm hangs on a cabbage leaf, don't jerk it loose. Just shake the rod tip, this will usually cause the jig worm to fall down to the next level of vegetation (a lot of your hits will come at this point). If the jig worm will not shake loose, then snap it loose and let it fall; again after snapping it loose expect to get bit, as this instant acceleration can trigger some jarring hits. Once I've hit the base of the weed line I shake/doodle the jig worm, wait a few seconds and snap the jig worm off the bottom. If I locate a strong bite on a deep weed line I will switch to the Northland Lip-Stick Jig worm. Because I use this jig in a little heavier weight, it allows me to fish faster. With these jigs I like to use a 6" worm, a Baby Brush Hog or Baby Ring Fry. When you have a strong bite going these baits seem to generate more bites from larger fish.

Here are some examples of a Brush Hog, Lake Fork Fry and a Berkley Power Slug; with the Gopher Tackle mushroom head jig I use to fish them. Just below the bare jig head you will notice a small chunk of the Power Slug. This is about the amount you will want to cut off from the front of the slug before rigging it.

A second technique for fishing newly emerging weeds during the pre-summer period and deep weed lines during the summer period, involves power fishing. This is the "down and dirty" fishing I mentioned earlier, using a bait-casting outfit. I usually use braid for this technique, but will switch to 17 to 20 pound fluorocarbon if the lake is extremely clear, as I think using fluorocarbon lines on clear water situations will generate a few more bites. With this technique you're not fishing right on the weed line, but moving up into the weeds. The same holds true with the emerging weeds. I use the VMC barbarian jig head in 1/4 oz. and a Berkley Power Slug (black) for fishing both areas. With this presentation you make a medium length cast and let the jig worm sink on a tight line. Once the jig worm stops, lift the rod a little. You're going to be surprised at the number of

Jason Ek, with a nice inside weed line bass

times there is already a fish on it. I cannot explain it, but fish just seem to hold on to this rig for an unnaturally long time. If you don't get bit, reel up any slack and snap the rod. Try to move the jig a couple of feet, and hold on...when they hit this bait they just crush it! Because of the design of the VMC jig head and because you're fishing it on a braided line, this bait will slice through most weeds. If you're fishing this bait correctly you should be able to look behind your boat and see the weeds you've sliced through floating on the surface.

The third area I like to use the jig worm on is an inside weed line during the summer period. By this time of the year the inside weed line should be well defined. Also, by now young-of-the-year sunfish and perch should be large enough to become a viable food source and they will be using the inside weed line for cover. Generally, I will use a spinning rod with a braided line and a fluorocarbon leader for this fishing. The water is shallower, so longer casts are generally called for. I like starting off with a Lake Fork Ring Fry on the 3/17th oz. VMC Barbarian jig head. If I know from past experience that this section of weed line can produce larger fish, I may switch to a Zoom Brush Hog. I fish inside weed lines quite fast. Any bass on an inside weed line is an active fish who's up there for only one reason and that is to eat!

I look at the jig worm as a numbers rig. I have caught some very large bass finessing a jig worm, but for the most part I use the jig worm when fishing is very tough or I want to put a lot of fish in the boat. Good luck this season and I hope to see you on the water.

Wayne Ek is a fishing guide, tournament angler and writer in Alexandria Minnesota.
You can reach Wayne Ek at Agape Fishing Guides, www.agapefishingguides.com