As
spring weather arrives and lakes become ice-free, most anglers start
seriously thinking about purchasing new or replacement tackle. Purchasing
new equipment can put a dent in the pocket book, so here are a few
ideas that can save you some money.
RODS
It would really
be nice to have a different rod for each kind of fishing… one
for jigging, one for trolling, one for rigging, and so on. For most
of us that is just not practical and it can be very expensive. One
way to stretch your dollar is to pick and use rods that can be used
for more than one application.
One good example is a long rod, one that is over 8-feet long.
You see them listed as mooching rods, noodle rods and salmon rods. Something
like the Okuma Celilo or Connoisseur line of rods. Both are considered
specialty or steelhead rods and sell for $34.99 to $49.99. Which is a pretty
reasonable price, once you realize all the things you can use them for.
A long rod with a wide-spool reel
can do yeomen’s work for
the average angler. I have two long rods both over 10-feet long
and use them constantly, all season long.
In the spring the
shore-bound crappie angler can cast a light jig and bobber combination
a county mile with these rigs. You can also use them in the spring
for dipping crappies in the pencil reeds. As the season progresses
I use my long rods as slip-bobber rods when fishing walleyes or
panfish. And
anytime during the summer that I’m drift-fishing large flats
under 15-feet deep for walleyes and need to keep the bait at a certain
depth, I break out a long rod. Drifting with a slip-bobber just
doesn’t work; as the bobber
runs down the line and lifts the bait out of the zone you want it
in. But with a long rod you just peg the bobber and the presentation
stays at the depth you want it at. And because you have so
much rod to work with you can still land fish, even with 12-13-feet
of line under the bobber.
When purchasing a new rod for
rigging or jigging consider this. Using braided line can enhance
the sensitivity of a moderately priced entry-level rod, so you don’t
always need that high-end super sensitive rod.
In the fishing world
there are a number of applications that are very visual, like fishing
top-water baits, buzz-baits or bobber fishing. None of these types
of applications require you to use a top-of-the-line super sensitive,
burn a hole in your pocket book rod. A moderately priced rod (IM-6
blank) in medium to medium heavy action is more than adequate for
these applications.
LINES
You can save money
by using backing on your reels. Backing allows you to spool fewer
yards of the more expensive lines, like fluorocarbon or super braids.
Normally on a size 20 spinning reel you would need to use 90-yards
of 8-pound test monofilament line and even more yards of a super
braid, to have a fully spooled reel. By
using backing you would only have to spool half that amount, getting
2 or 3 fillings out of the normal 150 or 175-yard spools of line.
Backing in the form of braided Dacron line in 40 or 50-pound test
(commonly used as tip-up line) is less expensive and lasts for 3
or 4 seasons on a reel.
When using super braid lines like Vicious Braid, remember that
they don’t break down like monofilament lines tend to. So after the braided
line has been on the reel for half the season, just reverse it. Pull the braided
line off the spool and walk it out into the yard. Then respool it starting
with the end that the tackle had been tied to. Now you’re good
to go for the second half of the season.
TUNGSTEN WEIGHTS
I
love using tungsten worm weights, but they are really expensive.
When tournament fishing the only weights I use are tungsten. I
use them when Texas rigging, Carolina rigging and when I need to
punch through heavy weed mats. But
pre-fishing or just fun fishing I use lead or brass weights. Just
limiting the times you use tungsten will save money. A quick comparison
of 3/16th-ounce weights hammers that home. Where as lead 3/16th
weights are selling for $3.19 for a package of 15, tungsten 3/16th weights
are selling for $5.99 for a package of 5.
You hate to lose tungsten weights
to bite-offs by toothy critters like northerns, but for upper Mid-west
anglers it’s just a fact
of life. I’ve found that you can significantly reduce the
number of bite-offs by using only painted tungsten weights and not
the shiny silver ones.
The other thing to remember
about tungsten weights is that fished unpegged, whether on monofilament,
fluorocarbon or braided line, is that they are hard on knots. The
constant pounding of a tungsten weight against the hook knot of
a Texas rig or swivel knot of a Carolina rig will cause the knot
to fail very quickly. The easy and inexpensive solution to that
problem is; when Texas rigging place a neoprene bobber stop between
the tungsten weight and hook knot. And when Carolina rigging place
a Northland Fishing Tackle single barrel Buck-Shot Rattle shell
between the weight and swivel knot. They both act as cushions against
the pounding a tungsten weight delivers to your knots, and the Buck-Shot
Rattle shell gives of a good loud rattle when Carolina rigging.
As
always, stay safe and we hope to see you on the water...
Wayne Ek
Wayne Ek is a fishing
guide, tournament angler and writer in Alexandria Minnesota.
You can reach Wayne Ek at Agape Fishing Guides, agapefishingguides.com
