IMPROVE YOUR SKILLS
Informative articles to help you better understand and utilize the Tools of the Trade

"Back to Basics" Vol. 3
Choosing the correct Reel for the application

In this month's "Back to Basics" we will cover reels. We will talk about gear ratio, inches per turn, drag, and setting the brakes. These tips will help guide you in determining which reel to use during your next outing. These are general guidelines that I use to help me perform better and catch more fish.

Gear Ratio:
Reels can be found with gear ratios varying from 3.8:1 to 7.1:1. The most common gear ratios are 5.1:1 and 6.2:1 for baitcasting reels and 5.2:1 for spinning reels. So what is so important to the angler when choosing reels with different gear ratios? The gear ratio is going to determine the amount of torque and speed at which the bait can be retrieved. The lower the gear ratio the more torque and the bait retrieve will be slower. Lower gear ratios are helpful when fishing big deep diving crankbaits. They help reduce fatigue in your rod arm because they act more like a winch then having to pull the bait through the water. Higher gear ratios will give you just the opposite, less torque but faster bait retrieval. When determining which gear ratio to use, I like to visualize how my bait will look as it is retrieved under the water. I have found that it is easier to use a lower gear ratio to slow down the bait then to wind the reel slowly.

Rick's Applications:

• 3.8:1 gear ratio - Deep diving Crankbaits
• 5.1:1 gear ratio - Crankbaits, slow-rolling Spinnerbaits
• 6.2:1 gear ratio - Top Water, Plastics, all around use
• 7.1:1 gear ratio - Burning Spinnerbaits and Top Water (buzzerbaits)

Rick's Reminders:

• Lower gear ratio = more torque, slower bait retrieval
• Higher gear ratio = less torque, faster bait retrieval

Inches per Turn:
One of the most overlooked items in reel choice is "inches per turn". In the past, gear ratios were used in determining how much line would be taken up with every turn of the reel handle. Now, reel manufacturers are including the "inches per turn" with the reel specifications. This information is important because it will let you know how fast or slow to turn the handle with different gear ratios to work your bait at the proper speed. Even more important is how much line will be taken up when fishing jigs or plastics are on the bottom. One turn of the reel handle can take the bait out of the strike zone.

Rick's Reminders:

• Inches per Turn will help you know what speed to turn the handle
• Be aware of the strike zone - a high inches per turn can take the bait out of the strike zone and reduce the ability of the lure to catch the fish

Drag:
Drag is the resistance put on the spool when a fish is pulling line from the other end. The drag system allows line to strip back off the spool without breaking the line. This allows to you have another method of fighting large fish with less fear of pulling (ripping) the bait out of the fish's mouth. I prefer to use a ceramic drag system. The reason is a ceramic drag system does not swell under heat. The ceramic drag systems works so well that "back reeling" with spinning reels is a thing of the past. Do not forget to adjust the drag when spooling up or changing baits. Different baits will require different drag settings. When power fishing in heavy cover, the drag can be set tighter then when fishing baits with small hooks or those that tend to "pull out" (crankbaits) easier. In general, the drag can be set just looser than the line breaking strength.

Rick's Reminders:

• Heavy cover - a tighter drag is better to be able to pull the fish up out of cover (heavier rod and line is recommended)
• Too loose and the drag can slip on power hook sets and allow the fish to turn back into the cover or not set the hook deep enough
• Crankbaits - a looser drag is better to help prevent fish from pulling off
• Always check the drag when changing line or baits
• Know which way to turn the drag setting in case adjustments are needed in a hurry while fighting a fish

Setting the Brakes:
The brakes on a reel are used to slow the rotation of the spool to help prevent the dreaded backlash. Today's reels can be set in free spool or can have up to nine brakes working at the same time. Most baitcasting reels are equipped with 2 methods or ways of adjusting the braking system. The tension knob is the most commonly used way of adjusting the speed of the spool. This brake allows you adjust the spool speed. The easiest way to set this brake is to hold the rod at 10 to 11 o'clock, disengage the spool, and turn the knob until the bait starts to fall under its own weight. The bait should be able to hit the ground without causing a backlash. The other way is the internal pins, which on most reels require the reel cover to be removed; the pins set, and then cover put back in place. These brakes are better known as centrifugal brakes and slow the spool down faster at the beginning of the cast when the spool the moving the fastest and let up the more as the line continues to un-spool. This braking system allows you to tune the spool speed for lighter baits and windy conditions.

Rick's Reminders:

• Always adjust your brakes before you hit the water
• With the tension knob properly set, use the internal pins to slow the spool down more with light baits or windy conditions

I hope you have found this month's "Back to Basics" informative and it helps you to increase your catch! Visit my website for more articles. If you are interested in a particular topic, send a request to rick@ricktilson.com. Check back next month for another informative "Back to Basics".'

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