SPINNERBAITS
EVERY THING YOU NEED TO KNOW AND A BUNCH MORE!
By: Hugh Crumpler III
Spinnerbaits, I love them. It seemed to take forever for me to get my
first bass over seven pounds. Then it happened so fast that I had three
in a short period of time -all on Spinnerbaits. I was very fortunate
to learn from some of the finest Spinnerbait fishermen.
I purchased my first
bass boat from Joe Keltner. It was a Kingfisher with a 33 hp Evinrude.
To help me make the payments Joe hired me to make Spinnerbaits in the
evenings. I would work three to four hours a couple of nights a week
and get to take home two Spinnerbaits each night. Joe, his brother
Jerry, and John Harrington were the owners of 3 J Bait company. Fishermen
who have a passion for fishing can’t
work without talking. That was how I learned about Spinnerbaits.
This was in the Springfield,
Missouri area in the early 1970’s.
This was a time of fishing innovation. In this part of the world Johnny
Morris started Bass Pro Shops. Forrest Wood started Ranger Boats. Ron
Pierce started Bass Cat Boats. Sam Kinsey was making performance stainless
steel props for bass boats. Champion Boats started. Some of the finest
bass fishermen in the world were in this area. Through competition and
innovation each inspiring the other. It was a great time to learn.
Hugh Crumpler III with a very nice bass. Hugh
Crumpler is a Professional Bass Fisherman and Bass Fishing Guide. |
By education and
early trade I am a Teacher and Coach. I have a great willingness to
share. My belief in God requires me to give from my blessings. I’ve
never had a large amount of cash to give. I have had a great amount
of knowledge to give. My articles are all over the internet. Sometimes
a grateful webmaster will give me some advertising. Mostly, the articles
are shared with hope some folks will take advantage and have an improved
fishing experience - maybe catch the bass of their dreams.
My articles are written from an analytical educational stand point.
I throw in humor from time to time. There is also a part of me in each
article. There is a little coaching in the article as well.
There is more to Spinnerbait fishing than throwing and winding. Sure,
that works from time to time - but for the best results there is much
more to it. Think of Spinnerbaits this way: there are many types of Crankbaits;
there are many types of soft plastics; why would you have only one type
of Spinnerbait? Just like Crankbaits and Soft Plastics each type of Spinnerbait
has a specific purpose and action. Open your mind to the multiple uses,
styles, purposes, and techniques for Spinnerbaits and your fish catching
will dramatically improve.
The Framework
The
Spinnerbait has several basic parts. The framework which consists of
the head, hook and arm; the blades; the skirts; and the hardware are
those parts. Each portion is an integral part of the lure’s makeup.
Standard of the industry
is a good strong and sharp hook. Higher quality Spinnerbait manufacturers
will use a sharper hook. There was one Spinnerbait made in the Ozarks
that had a hook fastened to the back blade as well as the standard
hook. The intent was to catch those fish that hit the blade. Great
idea that did not catch on very well. I don’t know
if the hook affected the rotation of the blade. I custom make Spinnerbaits
for myself and a few friends. I use a longer hook so as to get those
fish that nip at the lure as well as to get a deeper and thorough hook
up with all fish that bite. The use of the longer, sharper hook also
reduces the need for a trailer hook. The longer hook gets the short bites
and still preserves the Spinnerbaits tendency not to get hung up. Over
the years I have seen a few manufacturers that use the longer hook. Those
are hard to find.
Once in a while folks used to get into discussions about which shape
head was best. Basically, they would indicate a skinny one was better
for vegetation. The purpose of the head is to hold the arm and the hook
together and keep the head below the blades. The most important factor
is that the weight of the head is enough to keep the lure running straight
at fishing speeds. The larger the blades; the heavier the head needs
to be.
The arm is designed to hold the head below the blades. The original
arms were stainless steel. Within the last decade or so Titanium arms
have come to be used on Spinnerbaits.
People, in general, want the easy out. What ever is conceived to be
the easiest method is the best way. People want magic. Heaven forbid
there is any work or effort involved in catching bass. People want to
do as little as possible and have the best results. My apologies folks;
it does not work that way.
Spinnerbaits will draw a bass attention! |
The Stainless steel arms are the perfect arm. They hold the blades in
place. They allow the blades to rotate. Because of the firmness of the
Stainless Steel arms they let the blades send out vibrations. Those vibrations
cause bites.
Fish do not have ears like humans. Fish feel vibrations through their
entire body. Take away the vibrations and you greatly limit one of the
Spinnerbaits greatest fish attracting qualities.
Sometimes the vibrations of the Spinnerbait are so perfect that the
fish slams the Spinnerbait and bends the arm. Big Deal!! You got the
bite. Straighten it back with a pair of needle nose pliers and get on
to the next bite.
But people don’t want to straighten out the lure. It’s
much easier to use a Titanium arm Spinnerbait. What makes the Titanium
arm Spinnerbait not bend is the same quality that causes the arm to
absorb the the vibrations instead of sending them out. Watch a Titanium
Spinnerbait arm as the lure comes through the water. The arm is vibrating;
it is absorbing the vibrations that cause the fish to go nuts and bite.
Yes, the Spinnerbait with a Titanium arm still catches fish, just not
near as many as if the angler was using a Stainless Steel arm Spinnerbait.
At one time it was in vogue to use light wire Spinnerbaits. This all
goes back to the same principle as the Titanium. The light wire absorbs
the vibrations. If the fish do not want the good vibrations go to a Spinnerbait
with a different shaped blade or to a smaller Spinnerbait with a smaller
blade.
I love those hard
bites that tear up my Spinnerbaits. Give me all those you don’t want! Just send those fish my way. I’ll
straighten every lure back. The bite is more than worth the work.
Two types of eyes are on Spinnerbaits. One is the open eye and the other
is the closed eye. Each has its advantage. Each has its disadvantage.
The open eye reduces the possibility of the line getting caught on the
Spinnerbait. The open eyed arm can have the line slip down the shank
of the Spinnerbait. The closed eye prevents line slippage, but, the line
can end up behind an arm, get pinched and then get cut. Each has its
own advantage and disadvantage. I use both with an understanding of what
to look for while fishing.
The
use of the closed eye so you can use a snap on the lure goes back to
the paragraph about wanting to do things the easy way. Tie your line
directly to the Spinnerbait!
The Skirt
The skirt; oh my
goodness the skirt! Original Spinnerbaits had rubber skirts. The rubber
tended to rot in the tackle box. The rubber skirts dried up and became
useless. Some rubber skirts still do that. Then came the vinyl skirts.
These skirts added depth to the color. They were bright and brilliant
colors. Trouble was they lost their “puffiness” with
use. I still love um and remember them fondly. Feather material was an
original material for skirts and still is. Silicone, flash material,
and a variety of other materials came along.
The important part of a skirt is that is that it is a color the fish
likes; it vibrates; and it stays on the head. The vibration of the skirt
is a portion of the second stage of getting a fish to bite.
People, in general, want the easy out. What ever is easiest is the best
way. People want magic. Heaven forbid there is any work or effort involved
in catching bass. People want to do as little as possible and have the
best results. My apologies folks; it does not work that way. Paragraph
sound familiar???
Folks want to be able to remove a skirt and place on another. Thus they
change the color of the presentation. The same thing that makes the skirt
changeable is the same thing that causes the skirt to come off on a cast
or when the lure bumps an object in the water. It is the same thing that
makes the skirt come apart.
When you see a Spinnerbait with a rubber band holding the skirt in place
you are looking at a trouble spot - not an advantage spot. Some anglers
immediately use Super Glue on lures with these skirts. The Spinnerbaits
that I make have a skirt that is tied on just like guides on a rod.
Retie often! One of the basic rules of a professional fisherman. Frayed
line is most common cause of lost fish. The use of a snap or snap swivel
to attach lure after lure is a habit that induces lost fish. It goes
back to that familiar paragraph. Folks want the easy out. Well success
does not work that way! Tie on each lure. When you decide to change skirt
colors - tie on the lure again! Tie knots slowly? Practice makes perfect.
Practice while you watch TV.
I had a fishing partner one time that took a half hour to tie a knot.
We would move to a new location seeking fish. He needed to use a different
lure. He would sit down. Light up a cigarette. Burn off the old lure.
Puff and puff! Tie the knot in stages. Each time puffing. Then finally
the cigarette and the lure would be done at the same time and he would
burn off the the small end piece of line. I would pull up the trolling
motor and head for another spot because I was done with that one.
Two things here-
if your goal is to tie on a new lure. Do it in a timely manner. Any
thing you do outside your goal slows you down. On average, every time
my partner went fishing he tied on at least five different lures. Each
tying of the knot took about a half hour. In a full day’s
fishing that was about two and a half hours of knot tying. How successful
do think he was in catching fish? You are right. How successful were
we as a team? You are right.
The Blades
Pictured are two 1/2 ounce Spinnerbaits one is with Tandem Colorado Copper Blades
and one is with Tandem Colorado White Blades. |
The blades, their size, their spacing and their shape determine the
vibration of the Spinnerbait. Basically, a blade that is wide swings
wider and gives off more vibration. A blade that is narrow gives off
less vibration and rotates in a smaller circle. A narrow blade is less
likely to get stuck in vegetation.
The composition of the blade determines the type and color of flash
that is given off by the blade. A smooth blade will give off one flash.
A hammered blade will give a multitude of flashes in a multiple of directions
stirring fish who may only catch a glimpse of the flash as the fish tries
to locate the source of the vibration. Painted blades do not flash much.
A fish that sees a painted blade feels the vibration and is attracted
to the lure by the color of the blades and the vibrating skirt. Copper
blades, nickel blades, silver blades, gold blades, brass blades, and
a variety of painted blades are available.
Blade
shapes include Colorado, Indiana, Willow, Dakota, Chopper, and Tomahawk.
Blades can be fluted or cupped. Fluting is crinkling the end of the
blade. Fluted blades look like an accordion on the end. Cupping is
bending the blade or bending the end of the blade. Cupping causes the
blade to rotate in a smaller circle and also reduces some of the vibration.
Starting at
the bottom left and going up the first lure is 1/8 ounce Tandem
Colorado Copper. Then the middle on the left is 1/4 ounce Tandem Colorado Nickel. At
the top left is 3/8 ounce Tandem Colorado Copper. In the Middle starting
at the bottom we have 1/2 ounce Tandem Colorado Copper. Dead center of
the photo is 3/8 ounce Tandem Colorado and Willow. Top middle is 1/43
ounce Tandem Colorado and Willow. And on the right is 3/8 ounce Tandem
Willow. This photo shows the various types of most effective and common
blades and the various sizes available. Also, note the
spacing of the blades. |
Blade shapes can be used together. The most common shape combination
is a Colorado blade in front of a Willow Leaf blade.
Each blade shape has its own particular rotation and vibration. Combining
blades on a Spinnerbait adds flash and vibration. The blades should rotate
in opposite directions. Proper spacing will produce opposite direction
rotation. Ever seen a blade just lay flat? That was due to incorrect
spacing.
A variety of fishing techniques add to the appeal of the blades shape,
size color, flash and vibration. These will be covered a little later
in the article.
The size of the blade also determines the circle of rotation and the
amount of vibration. Larger blades of the same type rotate in larger
circles and give off more vibrations. Smaller blades of the same shape
rotate in smaller circles and give off smaller vibrations.
Getting
the right combination of vibrations, flash, skirt movement, speed of
presentation, and type of presentation is the key to outstanding days
of production. There is more to it than you thought; isn’t
there? Keep on reading - much more to come.
Hardware
The
hardware consists of the swivel, the beads and the clevis. The swivel
can be a barrel or a ball bearing. Ball bearing swivels, if they are
top grade, provide the maximum rotation. Barrel swivels, if they are
top grade, provide excellent rotation. A visual examination of the
swivel is not enough to tell if its top quality or not. The key is
to flick the blade and note the rotation. If the rotation suddenly
stops - something is wrong with the swivel. The blade should rotate
consistently and slowly come to a stop.
If you test one brand and the blade suddenly stops the chances are that
all the rest of their swivels are of the same grade. Swivels can cost
a manufacturer from a penny each to over a dollar each.
Clevises are those things that rotate around the arm and hold on the
front blade of a tandem Spinnerbait. Basically, there are folded clevises
and stirrup clevises. Folded are folded metal. The folded ones are not
as efficient as the stirrup. Stirrup are more substantial and reliable.
I have not seen folded clevises used very much.
Beads
are made in several shapes, sizes and of several different materials.
Glass, plastic and metal are the most common materials used. Faceted
beads (lots of flat surfaces on a round shape) are designed to give off
light in different directions. Round metal beads are the most reliable.
The purpose of the beads is to space the front and rear blade. I have
seen a tube used for this purpose. Basically, the manufacturer is using
tube to save himself a few steps of putting on beads to reduce costs.
Tubes work, but, tubes tend to cause more friction on the clevis and
reduce rotation. Thus reducing vibration. Tubes have a flat end. Beads
have a rounded end. Less material contact is less friction.
Spinnerbait Techniques
CHUCK
AND WIND: Basically, this is casting the Spinnerbait out and winding
it back. There is more to it that will increase strikes and success.
Cast past an object and bring it buy. Also, try to bump the object.
Bumping an object gets a bass’s attention. Much of a bass’s
feeding activity is ambush feeding. They do this in two ways. First
they will position themselves by a piece of structure and dart out
at a prey as it comes by. Second, they will position themselves away
from and facing an object. In this mode they are waiting for some type
of prey to come out of cover so they can ambush it. Or they may be
waiting for an opportunity to dart into the cover capturing the prey.
Either way bringing the Spinnerbait by the object or bumping the object
is likely to produce a strike from a bass waiting in ambush.
There are small adjustments that can be made to Chucking and Winding
that can produce improved results. Increasing or reducing the speed can
make a difference. The size of the lure and the shape of the blades can
make a difference. If there is no grass around I like Colorado blades.
The Colorado blades provide maximum vibration which is like a loud noise.
The bass may not like it but it gets their attention and if the bass
does not want to eat it the bass might want to shut it up.
Colorado blades tend to get tangled in grass and stop working. If there
is grass around I like to use Willow Leaf shaped blades. Willow Leaf
blades rotate in a smaller diameter so they are not as affected by grass.
I use as large a back blade as the most likely bait size the bass will
be expecting to see in the part of the water I am using the lure.
Bass
also feed by schooling and chasing schooled up bait. In this instance
the key is to cast the lure past the activity and bring it through.
If the Spinnerbait looks exactly like the bait - why should the bass
pick your bait to eat? Same size works great because that is what they
are expecting. Use a color that will draw the bass’s attention to your
lure.
Last Spring at Stick
Marsh the bass really hit the ¼ ounce
Spinnerbait with White blades and Bubble Gum skirt well! The blades
were the color of bait fish. The lure was the size of bait fish in
the area. AND the Bubble Gum got their attention! The vibration also
got their attention. The blades were tandem Colorado.
If
there are not many bait fish in the area and the bass are basically
hanging around waiting for food to arrive. The use of colors and sizes
imitating bait in the area or bait that is likely to be in the area is
key.
SLOW ROLLING: This is casting out - letting the Spinnerbait sink to
the bottom - then slowly winding the Spinnerbait back MAINTAINING LURE
CONTACT WITH THE BOTTOM!!!!!!! Yes, not just winding slow, but, maintaining
lure contact with the bottom. This is the same as bumping the stump except
we are bumping the bottom.
The principle is
that the Spinnerbait is vibrating which is drawing the bass’s
attention to the bottom. The Spinnerbait is bumping the bottom stirring
up any dust on the bottom. This looks like a bottom moving fish or
a crawfish moving on the bottom. Or, maybe, some other type of prey
moving on the bottom.
It is going slow
so it looks easy to eat. Big fish are less aggressive. So…big fish like things that are easy to eat. They didn’t
get big chasing fast moving lures! Your average size fish will increase.
Your number of bites will probably decrease when you Slow Roll..
Think in your head what you are trying to imitate. What is it that you
want the bass to think the Spinnerbait is? If the answer is Crawfish
then throw a Crawfish colored Spinnerbait. If the answer is Shad. Ask
yourself if a shad is likely to be stirring up the bottom.
A Professional Angler
once told me that when I caught a bass to look at his eyes. If the
bass’s eyes were looking up then the bass was
looking up at my lure. If the bass’s eyes were looking down then
the bass was looking down at my lure. If you catch one Chucking and Winding
this “looking into his eyes” will help you to determine if
there is another method that way produce more fish. Eyes up the bass
was below the lure. Eyes down the bass was over the lure. Move from there.
It is the small differences that make a big difference in success.
I like Colorado blades when there is not vegetation because they give
out the maximum vibration. I like the largest blades I can get because
I want the largest bass I can get. A bunch of little ones is not in my
thought process when I am Slow Rolling.
One
Exception: If there is a cold front and the bass will not move I will
use a small Spinnerbait slowly on the bottom to produce any bite. If
they will not move they are more likely to move on something easy to
eat - a small, slow moving Spinnerbait.
Over vegetation Slow Rolling can be effective. Work the Spinnerbait
on the top of the vegetation just like you would over a bottom without
vegetation. Here we are trying to do two things. Get the bass above the
grass to bite. And to the get the bass inside the grass or down in grass
holes to come out and bite.
Key your size of Spinnerbait to the size that maintains contact with
the vegetation the best. Key your color to the color of prey hat may
be in the area.
I
have mentioned colors a bunch. Basically, Crawfish colors are Yellow,
Brown, Black, Red, Green, Orange, and Chartreuse. Crawfish shed their
shells during the full moon. So they are darkest just before the full
moon. They are lightest just after the full moon.
Shad
colors are Gray, White, Silver, Blue, Black, and few others. Bluegill
colors are Blue, Spotted, Orange, Yellow, Black, and few shades in between.
Wild Shiner colors are Green, Gray, Orange, White, Silver, Black and
a few shades in between.
So why do some of
the goofy colors get bit? They get the bass’s
attention. I mean who ever saw a Fire Tiger colored prey? Who ever saw
a Bubble Gum colored prey?
It is not just the lure. It is not just the color of the lure. It is
not just the size of the lure. Remember, it is the small things that
make the big difference. It is all of these and the technique used. When
you have that day you think you are in Bass Fishing Heaven then you pretty
much got it all right. No one can tell you ahead of time. You must figure
it out as you fish. Each and every time you fish.
BULGE: This takes a little practice to get the best possible presentation.
Well, maybe, a bunch of practice. It all depends upon your present skill
and experience level. Learning to do this technique will provide you
with a technique that will produce some of the most vicious of bass strikes.
Correctly performing
this technique results in the Spinnerbait running just under the surface
and causing the surface of the water to BULGE above the surface. What
does this look like to a bass? Number one it looks like a Crawfish
fleeing across the surface and number two it looks like a prey fish
fleeing across the top. In either case the prey is trapped in an ambush
position. The bass is underneath and the prey can’t
fly. Some thing trying to escape always looks like some thing that should
be attacked and eaten. Because the Spinnerbait that is Bulging is seen
to be escaping it is attacked with top speed and force. Therefore the
strike is vicious. I love that!!
Cast the Spinnerbait
out. The Spinnerbait should land past a target or almost on the bank.
WHILE THE SPINNERBAIT IS IN THE AIR the angler should stop the out
going line so that the bow of casting the line and the stretch of the
line is taken out as the lure lands. If done correctly the angler might
hear a “Pop” as the back blade lands on
the water flat. The cup of the blade traps water and causes a loud sound.
The sudden sound on top of the water attracts the bass’s attention
just as a sudden sound would attract our attention. The bass looks in
the direction of the sound and sees what appears to be a fleeing prey.
He wants it before what ever it is fleeing from gets it first. Hence
the vicious strike.
Even if the lure
does not make the “Pop” the splashing of
the lure will attract the bass’s attention. This is one technique
that relies on sound for attention.
Once the lure lands
the angler must immediately bring the rod tip up and start reeling.
The object is to get the lure Bulging IMMEDIATELY!! I fished a tournament
in the 70’s on Bull Shoals
Lake, Arkansas. The limit was ten per person. I had my ten and culled
a couple. The angler fishing with me had not very many. He could not
get the hang of getting the lure to Bulge immediately. His Bulging
required letting the lure sink about eight inches before the lure was
brought up. This was about three feet of retrieve before the lure Bulged.
Even though the bass were striking about 20 feet from the landing site
of the lure the immediate Bulging made a difference in whether they
would strike or not.
It is the subtle or little differences that make a big difference. Yes,
getting the technique working at top performance takes a little practice.
Is the practice worth it? Is twelve or thirteen bass better than two
or three? I think so.
DROP: Dropping is
a part of any technique. Dropping causes the Spinnerbait to appear
to have a problem. Dropping makes the Spinnerbait look really easy
to eat. This is just a simple stopping of the retrieve and letting
the lure sink. Dropping will get a bass’s attention.
Some times this little variance of technique is just enough to get
a bass to strike.
Dropping is very effective in three situations. One: Drop the lure as
it comes by a piece of structure. Typically this can be a tree. It can
also be a hole in vegetation; the edge of vegetation; or by a rock. The
line should be slack. The angler is looking for a jump or twitch in the
line. Two: As the lure comes through a school of bait drop the lure.
This will look like an injured prey - some thing easy to eat. Three:
After a short bite. If the bass misses the Spinnerbait then drop the
Spinnerbait. This looks like the bass injured the prey and therefore
it is easy to eat. The bass is likely to go after the prey again.
On occasion the Drop can be just a little pause. All having the same
effect on the bass. This short duration Drop causes the blades to flare.
And the lure to Drop only a short distance. We could call this Flaring.
Basically Flaring is an attention getting technique that also makes the
Spinnerbait look easy to eat. Tandem Willow Leaf Spinnerbaits have a
great Flare.
BURBLING: Burbling is a technique very much like Bulging. The difference
is that the back blade of the lure (some times the only blade) breaks
the surface on a regular basis causing the lure to create a Burbling
sound. This is becoming a lost art and forgotten technique. The advent
of Buzzbaits has caused the art to become lost. Buzzbaits do this much
easier, much more effectively and Buzzbaits can be made to hit a clacker
or the head of the lure.
The lure, rod, reel,
line, …all of it are highly
critical and are selective to the individual. It takes lots of practice,
determination and experimenting to come up with an individual Burbling
technique.
Rod Usage
I
favor Baitcasting reels and rods for use with a Spinnerbait. The Baitcasting
rigs are more accurate and more controllable. As for rods the key is
the technique used. The rod tip must be soft when Slow Rolling. It can
be critical how far the rod tip moves the Spinnerbait when it comes over
an object. I was fishing a tournament of Table Rock Lake in Missouri.
The fishing location, and type of fishing were my choice. The angler
with me was catching bass and I was not. I had told him to Slow Roll
and do so very slowly. When the Spinnerbait came to a log let the Spinnerbait
ease over the log and the bass would simply swim off with the Spinnerbait.
So why did he catch twelve bass and me only three? I was fishing in
the front of the boat. I had first choice of targets. I told him how
to catch them. I did not figure it out for a long time. Some lessons
are hard learned and not easily forgotten. This was one. I sat and watched
him fish. In a tournament this is hard to do - watch and not fish. Well,
I figured it out. His rod had a softer tip than mine. The result was
that when his Spinnerbait came to a log his rod bent and the softness
of his rod tip allowed the Spinnerbait to drop closer to the log than
my stiff rod tip did. I switched rods and caught more. Not enough to
make me happy. He won the tournament!
Small or subtle differences do make a big difference in success. His
twelve bass and my three bass prove that.
When Slow Rolling I use a rod with a softer tip. I like a stiff backbone
for hook sets and moving the fish. I like longer rods for moving more
line with a hook set or for getting the Bulging started.
A little hint about Bulging. The key may not be speed. Well, what I
mean is, the key may not be high speed. Larger blades and a higher holding
of the rod tip by the angler can cause the Bulging Spinnerbait to run
at a slow speed. It is possible to make the line vibrate above the water.
When the this happens the Spinnerbait is producing maximum vibration.
This is my favorite technique adjustment when Bulging.
Depth
Feeding fish are
the easiest to catch. Finding the correct depth for feeding fish is
simple. What depth are the bait fish? What depth is the probable prey?
That can be figured by riding across the lake with the depth finder
on. The schools of fish will be in a particular depth range. The prey
do not move to find the bass. The bass move to find the prey. Bass
like structure. So, find a structure break at the depth of the prey.
BINGO!! You have a starting spot. From there it’s
a question of your catching skills.
On occasion you know
where the bass are located. In this case it’s
a matter of selecting the technique that gets them to eat.
Periods of Spinnerbaiting
Bass like these
eat Spinnerbaits The fatness of this bass shows it is
PreSpawn. This indicates the bass are moving and eating. Also, the
bass are getting ready to Spawn. Be sure to adjust your
techniques with Spinnerbaits accordingly. |
PreSpawn: Bass have
a life cycle and much of how they behave is based on the cycle of the
weather and the cycle of their life. PreSpawn is a period before the
Spawn. During the PreSpawn period the bass are out eating and foraging.
They are getting ready to go on the bed. The bass are getting fat and
preparing their body for the ordeal of no food, spawning, and protecting
their eggs until they hatch. It’s approximately
a two week ordeal for the spawn. It takes the bass more than two weeks
to get the extra weight needed to carry them through the spawn. It takes
the bass about a month to prepare for the spawn. So…PreSpawn is
about a month long. Weather changes can increase or shorten this time
frame.
The bass are moving
around and eating. For the angler this makes the bass easier to catch.
The key elements for the angler is to be fishing near the bass’s prey and to be moving the Spinnerbait. Chucking
and Winding is an excellent technique. Bulging will get a bass’s
attention and Slow Rolling will also produce. Add the Drop to any technique
and watch the catch rate increase.
Strikes during the PreSpawn are likely to be hard and swift. The bass
is eager to eat and less hard to fool.
Spawn: During this time frame the bass are located in one spot - the
bed. They will only move to protect the eggs. They do not eat during
this time frame. Slow Rolling is an excellent technique for the Spawn.
This brings the lure across the bed and makes the Spinnerbait appear
to be trying to eat the eggs. Strikes may feel like a twitch or they
may be very hard. It depends upon how much the bass feels the eggs are
threatened by the Spinnerbait.
If the bass are Spawning
in vegetation the beds may not be visible. However, the Spinnerbait
should be dropped into any hole in the vegetation. This will get the
bass’s attention and appear
to be some thing coming down to eat the eggs.
Bass beds are close to each other. Catch one bass are there are more
in the area.
Post Spawn: This is the time frame after the Spawn. Here the bass are
protecting the fry. Bulging is an excellent technique during the Post
Spawn. The fry are in a bundle and close to the surface. The mother or
father, or both, will be close to the fry protecting them.
When you cast out and during the retrieve you see little fish hop out
of the water the little fish are fry of some kind. Should they be bass
you should get bit. It all depends on how much of a threat the protecting
bass believes the Spinnerbait to be. Should you not catch a bass continue
to work the little fish until you catch the protecting bass.
Just like bedding the fry will be in areas close to each other. They
were Spawned close to each other and they will hatch close to each other.
Post Spawn ends when the protecting bass makes a pass through the fry
eating some of them. This is a signal to the fry that they are no longer
protected. They are on their own.
Summer
The
Summer period begins when the Post Spawn ends. The bass have not eaten
while protecting the eggs or while protecting the fry except in defense
of the eggs or fry. The bass are fairly skinny and lethargic. What
they are looking for is something very easy to eat.
Slow Rolling is an excellent technique as is Chucking and Winding combined
with Dropping. Make the Spinnerbait appear to be easy to eat. Easy to
eat is the key. This means S L O W. Easy to eat also means the bass should
not have to move far to eat.
Casts should be close together. The bass will not move far or fast to
eat.
As
the Summer progresses the bass will gain some weight and aggressiveness.
They will start to school and chase bait once they get healthy again.
As the Summer progresses the techniques will have to be adjusted to suit
the patterns of the bass. No one can tell you exactly when all of this
takes place. It is a matter of going out there and figuring it out. Each
lake, each season, and some times each part of a lake or stream is different.
It is all related to the weather.
Fall
The fall starts when the Summer ends. They only way to figure this out
is by going out there and fishing. Some times the Summer and the Fall
kind of mush together. There is no straight line. The Fall for the bass
is a season of activity. It is also a season of changing patterns highly
related to the weather. What ever the bass are doing in the Fall a weather
change will change what they are doing.
Maybe it will increase
the activity or maybe the weather change will decrease the bass’s
activity. GENERALLY high pressure slows the bass down and puts them
deeper. GENERALLY low pressure makes them active and brings the bass
shallower. GENERALLY dark days cause the bass to be more active and
to be shallower. GENERALLY bright days cause the bass to be slower
and deeper.
Why all the “GENERALLY”? Because every time I think I have
the bass figured out they don’t do what they are supposed to do.
Again, and I know
most angler don’t like this,
but, it is a question of figuring it out. The information will help
the figuring out process.
If the bass are slow and deep the techniques are Slow Rolling and any
technique with a drop. If the bass are more active then the techniques
are Chucking and Winding and Bulging.
Winter
During this season
the bass are lethargic. They tend to stay in one spot. They do not
move far or fast to eat. Slow Rolling and Chucking and Winding with
a Drop are the favored technique. Remember, they don’t
move fast they don’t move far. Casts close to each other are critical.
Catch one bass and repeat the exact same cast. The bass also tend to
be very close to each other.
Locating bass in
the Winter can be difficult. The key is that when you find them you
usually find a big wad. Lots of bass on one piece of structure. They
don’t move far or fast so once
found they should be easy to work.
There it is………….
Everything you need to know about Spinnerbaits and a bunch more. Anglers
are constantly experimenting and learning. There is more out there to
learn. Take any part of my presentation and put into your presentation.
Some of what works for me may not work for you. Some of what works for
me may add bass to your count. Get out on the water and work it. It is
hard to catch bass on the couch.
I
custom make a variety of Spinnerbaits. They are highlighted by a few
improvements that I believe increase catch rate. The blades are designed
to rotate in opposite directions. The hooks are long shank hooks so
as to get the nip bite and so as to get a deeper thorough hook up with
a regular bite. The skirts are tied on like guides on a rod. There
is no “casting
off’ the skirts. There is no fish pulling down the skirts. The
hardware is top grade. Each head is painted by hand in a five step process.HughCrumplerLures.Com
CONCLUSION
What
ever Spinnerbait you prefer the techniques and time frames for use
presented will increase your catch. It is all up to you to go out there
and give those bass a piece of your Spinnerbait.
Hugh Crumpler III
A Bass Fishing Guide Service
HughCrumpler.com
hugh@hughcrumpler.com